Ingridients | January 20 2025

What is salicylic acid and how does it work?

Salicylic acid is a well-known, widely used ingredient in skincare, particularly for people who deal with blemish and oily skin. Known for its exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties, this well-loved ingredient is a favorite among dermatologists and skincare enthusiasts alike. 

In this article, we will break down what salicylic acid is, how it works, and why it is excellent for treating a variety of skin concerns.

What does salicylic acid do?

Salicylic acid is a type of beta-hydroxy acid (BHA) that is used to treat various skin conditions. Unlike alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which are water-soluble, salicylic acid is oil-soluble. 

This enables it to deeply penetrate into the skin's oily layers, making it highly effective at targeting clogged pores, blackheads, and pimples. 

The ingredient acts as a powerful exfoliant that works on a cellular level, breaking down the bonds between skin cells to encourage shedding and renewal. Its exfoliating action helps to keep pores clear, reduce the likelihood of breakouts, and reveal a fresher, smoother layer of skin. 

How salicylic acid works

The effectiveness of salicylic acid stems from its unique structure and oil-soluble nature. It works to penetrate the lipid layers of the skin and reaches deep into the pores. This makes it effective at breaking down sebum (oil), dead skin cells, and other debris clogging the pores. 

Once inside the pores, salicylic acid loosens the 'glue' that joins skin cells together. This gentle exfoliating action removes dead skin cells and prevents them from accumulating and blocking the pores. Regular exfoliation promotes skin cell turnover for a smoother, more even complexion.

Salicylic acid also works to reduce the amount of oil on the skin's surface. It doesn't strip the skin of essential moisture but instead helps regulate sebum production and prevents the build-up of excess oil that can contribute to blemish.

Anti-inflammatory + blemish-fighting benefits

Salicylic acid is known for its anti-inflammatory properties, making it a gentle yet powerful skincare staple. Here are some more benefits of salicylic acid and why it's a go-to ingredient for anyone tackling inflammation and blemishes:

• Calms redness + swelling: Inflammatory blemish is often accompanied by redness + swelling. Salicylic acid works to reduce these symptoms by soothing the skin, making blemishes less noticeable while speeding up the healing process.
• Kills blemish-causing bacteria: Its exfoliating and pore-clearing actions create an environment that is less conducive to the growth of blemish-causing bacteria. Salicylic acid reduces the likelihood of bacteria becoming trapped within the skin, which can often lead to further breakouts.
• Prevents new blemish from forming: Regular use of salicylic acid helps prevent the formation of new blemish by keeping the skin's surface and pores clean and clear. The removal of dead skin cells and oil build-up minimizes the potential for clogged pores.

The highly effective, advanced range of ZO® Blemish-Prone Skincare is formulated to treat and prevent breakouts. Our products boast essential ingredients that slow sebum production and control excess oil to help you manage frustrating skin concerns.

How salicylic acid improves skin texture

Salicylic acid helps to fade post-blemish marks and dark spots over time. The ingredient achieves this by promoting skin cell turnover and exfoliation, encouraging the shedding of discolored cells to reveal a more even and radiant skin tone beneath.

Rough patches and uneven texture are often caused by a build-up of dead skin cells. Salicylic acid's exfoliating properties can help break down these areas, smoothing out roughness and giving your skin a softer, more refined feel.

While salicylic acid can't physically change the size of your pores, it can make them appear smaller. Keeping pores free from debris ensures they become less noticeable to achieve a more polished appearance.

How to use salicylic acid safely in your skincare routine

To maximize the ingredient's benefits and minimize potential irritation, it's essential to use salicylic acid correctly. Here are tips for incorporating it into your regimen: 

• Start slowly: If you're new to the ingredient, it's best to gradually introduce it to let your skin adjust. Start with a low concentration and use it once or 2 times a week. Gradually increase the frequency as your skin builds tolerance.
• Choose the right product for your skin type: Salicylic acid comes in various forms, including cleansers, toners, and targeted treatments. Individuals with sensitive skin would be suited to a rinse-off cleanser. Those with oily or blemish-prone skin may benefit from ZO® Oil Control Pads to reduce the formation of blemishes and regulate sebum production.
• Avoid over-exfoliating: Salicylic acid is a strong exfoliant, so it's important not to overdo it. Over-exfoliation can disrupt the skin's natural barrier and result in dryness, redness, and irritation. Limit your use if you're already using other exfoliating ingredients, such as AHAs or retinoids. 
• Pay attention to your skin: It's important to monitor how your skin responds to salicylic acid. If you notice excessive dryness, redness, or peeling, reduce the frequency of use or switch to a lower concentration. In severe cases of irritation, it may be best to consult a dermatologist. 

Can you use salicylic acid with retinol?

You can use salicylic acid and retinol together, but this requires some care to avoid irritation. Both are powerful active ingredients that can cause dryness, redness, and sensitivity if used incorrectly. Here's how to safely combine them:

• Alternate days: An easy way to use both in your routine is by applying salicylic acid one night and retinol on another. This reduces the chance of irritation while allowing your skin to benefit from both. 

• Layering with caution: If you want to use both on the same day, apply salicylic acid in the morning (followed by sunscreen) and retinol in the evening.

• Hydration: Both ingredients can dry out the skin, so using a good serum and hydrator will help maintain your skin barrier.

Manage oily, blemish-prone skin with ZO

The versatility of salicylic acid is ideal for treating blemish, keeping oily skin at bay, and enhancing skin texture. Learn more about this powerhouse ingredient and how to introduce it into your routine by locating a ZO® Authorized Physician near you. Alternatively, get in touch with our Skin Health Specialists today.