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Hyaluronic acid

Ingredients | January 29 2025

The Role of Hyaluronic Acid in Skin Hydration

Hyaluronic acid has taken the skincare industry by storm, earning its place as a go-to ingredient for hydrated, plump, and healthy-looking skin. Its versatility and ability to work for all skin types makes it a staple in skincare collections around the world.

But why is hyaluronic acid so hydrating? Understanding how it works and the benefits it offers can help you make better decisions when selecting new products. Let's explore the science behind this key ingredient and how to introduce it into your routine.

Hyaluronic acid: What does it do?

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring substance in the human body, found in the skin, eyes, and connective tissues. Its main role is to retain water and keep tissues moist and well-lubricated. Around 50% of the body's hyaluronic acid is present in the skin, where it binds to water to help hold moisture and keep the skin youthful and supple.

HA is a glycosaminoglycan; a type of molecule that can hold up to 1,000 times its weight in water. Although our body produces hyaluronic acid on its own, the natural production of HA declines as we age, leading to dry, dehydrated skin.

As a result, you might start to show fine lines + loss of elasticity. That's where topical hyaluronic acid products for hydration come in.

The science behind hyaluronic acid

The unique molecular structure of hyaluronic acid is the reason why it is so effective for skin hydration. HA is a large molecule made up of repeating sugar units, and its ability to attract and hold water molecules is due to its hygroscopic properties.

There are different molecular weights of hyaluronic acid, and each weight works at varying depths of the skin.

  • High-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid: Stays on the skin's surface, creating a moisture barrier to prevent water loss and give an immediate plumping effect. It's suitable for hydration and smoothing the skin.
  • Low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid: Smaller molecules that penetrate deeper into the skin, hydrating the lower layers and improving the skin's moisture retention over time.

Introducing various molecular weights of hyaluronic acid into your skincare can provide multi-level hydration, plumping the skin's surface while delivering moisture to the deeper layers.

Hyaluronic acid benefits

When used regularly, hyaluronic acid can significantly improve your complexion and the overall health of your skin. Benefits include:

  • Deep hydration: The primary benefit is its powerful ability to hydrate the skin. It acts as a humectant, drawing moisture from the environment and ensuring your skin stays moisturized throughout the day.
  • Plumper skin: One of the most noticeable results is its plumping effect. By hydrating the skin's surface, it helps to temporarily minimize the appearance of fine lines + wrinkles, making the skin look fuller and more youthful.
  • Improved skin elasticity: With regular use, hyaluronic acid can improve skin elasticity. With hydration levels boosted, HA helps the skin maintain its structure + flexibility to prevent visible signs of aging. 
  • Skin barrier support: HA works to reinforce the skin's moisture barrier, which helps protect against environmental aggressors like pollution and harsh weather. A well-hydrated skin barrier is also less prone to irritation, making it an excellent choice for sensitive or reactive skin.
  • Works for all skin types: Whether you have oily, dry, or combination skin, hyaluronic acid is suitable for all. It's non-comedogenic and lightweight, so it can be used in a variety of products and textures.

Hyaluronic acid types in skincare products

The ingredient comes in several forms, with different types of HA used in specific products.

  • Sodium hyaluronate: Often used in products because its smaller molecules can penetrate the skin more deeply than HA in its natural form. It is highly effective at retaining moisture and is typically found in serums and moisturizers.
  • Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid: Broken down into smaller components using a process called hydrolysis. These smaller molecules can work more deeply into the skin than standard hyaluronic acid, delivering hydration to the skin's lower layers.
  • Sodium acetylated hyaluronate: A modified form of HA that has greater skin affinity. It can provide longer-lasting moisture and improve skin elasticity with consistent use.

Incorporating hyaluronic acid into your skincare routine

Adding hyaluronic acid to your routine is simple, but there are a few things to keep in mind to get the most out of this versatile ingredient.

  • Layering: Hyaluronic acid is typically used after cleansing and toning but before applying heavier creams or oils. This ensures it can draw moisture into your skin without interference. If you use a HA serum, apply it to damp skin to allow it to work most effectively.
  • Combining with moisturizer: Since hyaluronic acid pulls moisture from the environment or your skin's deeper layers, it's important to lock it in with a good hydrator. Without a moisture barrier to seal it in, HA can actually draw water out of your skin and cause dehydration.
  • Daily use: Hyaluronic acid is gentle enough for daily use, even for sensitive skin. You can use it in both your AM + PM routines, as it pairs well with most other ingredients (including antioxidants and retinoids).

At ZO, we have a range of award-winning hydration and anti-aging products, including our Growth Factor Serum. It's clinically shown to improve skin thickness + elasticity, while restoring a supple, more hydrated complexion. Simply apply to clean, dry skin at night.

Our Hydrating Crème relieves symptoms of severely dry skin and works to replenish the skin's natural moisture to aid recovery. With key ingredients used to restore skin barrier function and hydration, feel the benefits of this soothing product by applying to skin AM or PM as needed.

Common misconceptions about hyaluronic acid

Despite the ingredient's widespread popularity, there are still several misconceptions that can cause confusion about how to use it effectively.

  • Hyaluronic acid is an exfoliator: Many people associate acids in skincare with exfoliating ingredients, such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or lactic acid. These are commonly known for their ability to remove dead skin cells and smooth out the skin's surface. Hyaluronic acid functions differently, working to hydrate and plump rather than exfoliate.
  • It only works in humid environments: While HA is effective when there's plenty of moisture in the air, it can still work in dry environments, as long as you follow up with a good hydrator. This helps to trap the moisture that HA pulls into the skin.
  • It's only suitable for dry skin: Some people assume that hydrating ingredients make oily/blemish-prone skin more greasy and cause breakouts. However, hyaluronic acid is a non-comedogenic ingredient, meaning it doesn't clog pores and has a lightweight texture that works for all skin types.

Find the best skincare for hydration with ZO

If you're looking to hydrate your skin and achieve a healthy complexion, ZO can help. Unsure of your skin type or hoping to build your perfect at-home routine? Find your ZO® regimen using our Regimen Finder to discover what's best for you. For further advice on any of our products, please get in touch with our friendly team of ZO® Skin Health experts.

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